9" Rear Buildup 4 Page 1 Page 2 Page 3

  Hotrod Home
  Kelly Home
  Grandson's Ride
  Falcon History

Falcon Drivetrain Specs
  Mustang 351C Specs
  New 351C motor build
  Disk brake swap
  9" Rear Buildup

Ford Engine Data
  Ford Xmission Data
  HydroValve Adjustment
  Ford/Auto Links

 Fun Stuff
  Wrecking Yard finds
  Wreck of the ol' 351C

 Send us a note!

     Good Information
     The Ford Falcon News
   Classic Mustang mail list
         Join us online!


Here's the new housing with the brake lines mounted.  I had to drill and tap a 7/16x20 hole for the vent tube, which also doubles as a hold down for the distribution block.  I tack welded a small piece of 18 gage steel no the driver’s side to help support the line on that side of the car.  

The only thing left to do to the axles was to put the wheel studs in the axles.  Peyton had pressed the bearings and retainers on for me, so this was the last prep step for them.  The Master Line axles are drilled for three different bolt circles: 4 ˝, 5 and 5 ˝ inches.  The Falcon uses a 4 ˝” bolt circle.  I treated the installation of the studs as a very critical step.  I cleaned the studs and holes with brake cleaner, then used Loctite 271 on the threads and torqued them to 100 ft/lbs.  The object was to help ensure that the studs would (hopefully) never come loose in normal usage.  Imagine the feeling of loosening a lug and having the wheel stud rotate with it.  Then, imagine a torch closing in on your mags.  Ouch!  I used 2” studs, which normally go on front wheels, so I could retain my spiffy chrome lug nuts.  The photo gives you an idea of the beefiness of the Master Line axles compared to the stock 8".  The retaining plate is 3 or 4 times thicker as the stock plate.  The axle diameter at the bearing is larger than a big bearing Ford.  The new bearings use an o-ring seal rather than one located in the housing. The final problem is pictured on the right.  The wheel stud heads came very close to the shoe spreaders.  There appeared to be just enough clearance when the retaining plates were tightened down, but I ground about .100 off of the spreaders in that area just for insurance.


I used Richmond’s recommended break-in procedure:  10 miles “normal” driving, cool down, repeat.  I'd recommend doing this at least four times before driving any real distance.



Peyton Performance Automotive

422 FM 1493

Waxahachie, TX 75167

(972) 923-1698


Randy’s Ring and Pinion

11630 Airport Road #300

Everett, WA 98204

(800) 292-1031


Richmond Gear

P.O. Box 238

Old Norris Road

Liberty, SC 29657

(803) 843-9231



Tractech, Inc.

11445 Stephens Dr.

Warren, MI 48090

(810) 759-3850



Part Number

Description Mfg/Supplier


72 Ford Torino Ford


Detroit Locker TracTech


3.70 RIchmond street gears Peyton

1K 9F-A

9" installation kit Randy's Ring & Pinion


Solid pinion spacer Randy's Ring & Pinion


Ford Motorsports U-Joint Randy's Ring & Pinion


Mark Williams 31 spline axles Peyton


Narrow housing Peyton


ARP ring gear bolts Peyton


Small housing ends Peyton


Axle bearings Peyton
  2" axle studs Peyton
  Dorman U bolts Peyton